I didn’t have massive expectations for the Three Peaks Hike – we’d only skimmed a few blogs beforehand – but it ended up being one of the top five hikes I’ve ever done. Maybe it was the crisp October air, or the way each summit outdid the last. Maybe it was just that feeling of pure, wild Montenegro – raw, rugged, and refreshingly lacking in excessive safety signage.
If you’re chasing a hike that combines alpine meadows, knife-edge ridges, and far-reaching views that stretch into Albania, this one’s for you. In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know to tackle the Three Peaks trail – from how to get there and what to pack, to my honest take on what makes it such an unforgettable experience.
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Where Is the Three Peaks Hike?
The Three Peaks Hike (sometimes referred to as the Volušnica–Popadija–Talijanka loop) is tucked away in Grebaje Valley, part of Prokletije National Park in Montenegro’s far northeast, right on the Albanian border. The park is sometimes called the ‘Montenegrin Alps,’ and it’s easy to see why – serrated ridgelines, deep glacial valleys, and peaks that rise dramatically above the clouds.
Prokletije translates to ‘The Accursed Mountains’, a name that comes from the region’s wild terrain and folklore of inaccessibility. Historically, shepherds grazed their livestock here through the summer, moving between stone huts known as katuns. Today, it’s still a quiet part of Montenegro, where life moves at mountain pace and hikers outnumber cars.
The nearest towns are Gusinje and Plav, both small but atmospheric, with friendly locals and a scattering of guesthouses and bakeries. Grebaje Valley itself feels like a secret pocket of the Balkans – a green cradle surrounded by sheer cliffs that seem to guard the entrance to another world.
Why Hike The Three Peaks Trail?
What I loved about this trail was how unexpectedly gnarly it was. The name sounds simple enough – Three Peaks. But the reality is a rollercoaster of steep climbs, rocky scrambles, and narrow ridges that get the heart racing in all the best ways.
We hiked in late October, and in total, we saw maybe twenty other people the whole day. That sense of solitude is hard to come by in Europe these days, and it gave the hike this rare, meditative rhythm – just us, the sound of crunching gravel, and the whistle of wind over the rocks.
The weather was a funny mix – frosty mornings that had us puffing into our gloves, followed by bright, warm afternoons where we peeled down to shorts and singlets. The shifting light gave the mountains different moods: cold and stern in the morning, almost glowing with warmth by midday.
Each peak rewards you with views that somehow outdo the last – sweeping panoramas of the valley floor below, the jagged Albanian Alps in the distance, and a whole lot of focusing intently on putting one foot in front of the other.
If you like your hikes wild and a little bit spicy, this one’s for you.
How To Get There
This part of Montenegro is easiest to navigate with a car, but we managed without – though not without a few misadventures. We based ourselves in Plav, a small lakeside town that’s an ideal starting point for Prokletije hikes.
One morning, we wandered down the main street and found a local taxi driver who agreed to take us to Grebaje Valley – around a 35-minute drive through winding mountain roads that get more beautiful with every turn. The ride costs about €15–20 each way.
Our plan was to wing it on the way back – classic backpacker optimism – but that quickly backfired when we realised we had no reception in the valley. Our driver was unreachable, and the place was emptying fast. Eventually, we managed to hitch a lift with a friendly couple who had just finished the same hike, back to Gusinje, where we caught another taxi home.
So, if you’re doing this hike without a car, arrange your return ride in advance. You’ll thank yourself later when you’re tired, dusty, and dreaming of a cold drink.
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Trail Overview
- Distance: ~10 km round trip
- Elevation gain: Around 900–1000 m
- Duration: 5–7 hours, depending on pace
- Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
The trail begins in Grebaje Valley, just beyond the main park entrance, where you’ll see a few guesthouses and restaurants. After a short walk across open meadow, the path climbs steadily into the forest. The first section is shaded, with soft pine needles underfoot and occasional glimpses of limestone peaks above the treeline.
After about an hour, the forest thins and the landscape opens into alpine meadow and scree slopes. From here, the views explode outward — the valley floor below looks like a green carpet, framed by grey walls of rock that seem to rise straight out of it.
The trail is reasonably well marked with red-and-white blazes, but it’s still worth downloading an offline map (Maps.me or AllTrails work fine). Once you’re on the ridge, the path gets narrower, with a few exposed sections that call for careful footing.
There are also freshwater creeks early in the hike, so you can refill bottles or splash your face – perfect for a little mid-trek cool-down.
The Three Peaks: Step-By-Step
Peak 1: Talijanka (2057 m)
The first climb sets the tone – steep, steady, and beautiful. You start in the lush green valley and slowly ascend through forest, where sunlight filters through moss-covered branches and the air smells clean and sharp. It’s the kind of section that warms up your legs before the real work begins.
Reaching the first summit feels like stepping into another realm. The ridge opens wide, revealing Montenegro and Albania in a single sweep. You can trace the line of mountains rolling away into the distance, the villages below tiny and quiet. It’s a perfect place to stop, sip some water, and take that first deep ‘we made it’ breath.
Peak 2: Popadija (2050 m)
Between the first and second peaks, the trail turns more technical – a narrow ridge with loose gravel, and at times, steep drop-offs to either side. I’m fairly comfortable with hikes, but I’ll admit I was crapping my dacks a little here. It’s the kind of terrain that demands focus – one clumsy step and it feels like you could topple down the slope.
That said, it’s exhilarating. The kind of hiking that makes you hyper-aware and alive. The reward? Sweeping views over Prokletije’s dramatic limestone spires, jagged and silver in the sunlight.
This is also a great point to look back – seeing the ridge you’ve already crossed is immensely satisfying (and makes you appreciate your balance).
Peak 3: Volušnica (1879 m)
By the time you reach the third and final peak, your legs might be trembling, but the views make it all worth it. Volušnica sits slightly lower, but the vantage point is incredible – a wide panorama over Grebaje Valley, with the other two peaks rising like old friends behind you.
It’s the perfect picnic spot. We sprawled on the grass, ate snacks, and just soaked in the silence – broken only by the wind and the occasional call of a hawk.
The descent from here can be tricky on loose gravel, so take your time and use your hands if you need to. By the time you hit the valley floor again, you’ll be sun-kissed, dusty, and ridiculously proud of yourself.
What To Pack for the Three Peaks Hike
Montenegro’s mountains are no joke – conditions can swing fast from balmy to biting cold. Here’s what I recommend packing:
- Sturdy hiking shoes or boots – The gravel can be loose, and ankle support makes a big difference.
- Layers – Mornings can be icy, afternoons warm enough for a singlet.
- Hat and sunscreen – The ridge is exposed and the sun strong, even in autumn.
- 2–3 litres of water – There are a few creeks along the way, but bring plenty.
- Snacks or lunch – You’ll want energy along the ridge.
- Trekking poles – Optional, but great for the descent.
- Offline GPS map – Signal is unreliable.
- Warm jacket or fleece – Especially if you’re hiking outside summer months.
The trail is remote, so come prepared – there are no shops, bathrooms, or mountain huts along the way.
Where to Stay Nearby
We stayed in Plav, a small lakeside town surrounded by mountains. It’s simple but charming, with a few guesthouses and local restaurants. The nearby village of Grebaje Valley also has mountain huts and eco-lodges if you prefer to stay closer to the trail.
After big hiking days, we ate almost every night at Café Restaurant Timm. It’s nothing fancy, but the portions were huge, the prices low, and the food – hearty Montenegrin classics like grilled meats, soups, and potatoes – perfect for refuelling tired legs.
Practical Tips
- Entry fee: Around €2 per person for Prokletije National Park.
- Season: June to October is best. Earlier, snow can linger on the peaks; later, weather turns unpredictable.
Guides: Local guides can be arranged in Gusinje if you prefer company or want local insights. - Start early: To make the most of the daylight and cooler hours.
- Leave no trace: This is a pristine, delicate ecosystem – pack out everything you bring in.
- Families: I saw a few kids on the trail – it’s doable, but they’ll need grit and supervision on the steep bits.
- Safety: There’s no mobile coverage on parts of the ridge. Let someone know your plans before setting out.
Post-Hike Treats
At the base of the hike, you’ll find a beautiful glass-fronted restaurant – part of the Eco Katun Grebaje complex – with floor-to-ceiling views of the valley. It’s a little swanky for post-hike attire, but we couldn’t resist stopping in.
So there we were, sweaty, dusty, and completely underdressed, sipping cold pints while watching the sun drop behind the peaks. The light turned gold, the mountains blushed pink, and we just sat there, grinning. The perfect end to a big mountain day.
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What Else To Do Nearby
If you’re staying in the area for a few days, there’s plenty to fill your time.
- Visit Plav Lake: Go for a swim, rent a kayak, or just walk the shoreline at sunset.
- Explore Gusinje: A small but characterful town with Ottoman-era bridges and cafes serving Turkish coffee.
- Ali Pasha’s Springs: A 10-minute drive from Gusinje – a turquoise spring that looks like something from a fairy tale.
- Try another hike: The Grebaje Valley to Karaula pass is a great shorter option with equally stunning views.
This corner of Montenegro doesn’t get the crowds of Durmitor or Kotor, but that’s exactly the charm. It feels like discovering the country’s quiet, wild heart.
My Experience In A Nutshell
What I loved most about the Three Peaks Hike was how wildly unregulated it felt. In Australia, a trail like this would be wrapped in safety rails and warning signs. Here, it’s just you, the mountains, and your own good sense.
There’s a freedom in that – a kind of unfiltered connection with nature that’s hard to find elsewhere. It’s the kind of trail that reminds you how capable you are – and how small, in the best possible way.
The region actually reminded me a little bit of Mirleft, Morocco – that same rugged, untamed beauty, where mountains meet vast open spaces and silence feels like part of the scenery. Albeit, much greener.
As the sun dropped behind the peaks and we hitched our ride back to town, I couldn’t help but smile. Montenegro had completely outdone itself.
Final Thoughts
If you’re travelling through Montenegro and crave a full-body, full-heart mountain adventure, make time for the Three Peaks Hike. It’s remote, raw, and absolutely worth the effort – a true highlight of the Balkans’ untamed side.
Come prepared, start early, and don’t forget to arrange your ride home. Then go and earn that pint with a view – trust me, it’ll taste like victory.